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Crossing the Arctic Circle (Grímsey Island)

May 28, 2017 By Talya Tate Boerner 7 Comments

Crossing the Arctic Circle and Grimsey Island, Iceland
It isn’t every day a girl gets the opportunity to cross the Arctic Circle. But when I find myself in North Iceland, only 25 nautical miles from the Arctic Circle, I can’t pass up the chance. So I booked passage on the ferry out of Dalvik, and John and I made the three hour voyage to Grímsey Island.

(I know what you’re thinking. ?A three hour tour…?)

The Arctic Circle straddles teeny tiny Grímsey Island on the northernmost side. Teeny tiny as in land area of two square miles and a maximum elevation of 344 feet. Seriously, the ratio of real estate to spectacular scenery is off the charts magnificent.

Getting There

The ferry ride was stomach-plunging bumpy. This is a working ferry that transports loads of fish, so no, not luxurious, but comfortable enough with bathrooms and Tom & Jerry cartoons playing on the television. I’d hoped to spot a whale, but we left in dense fog and saw nothing of the gorgeous shoreline leaving mainland Iceland. The small harbor on the island appeared out of the fog the instant we arrived and not a heartbeat sooner.

The Nature

Grímsey Island is home to 65 humans, Iceland’s largest population of Puffins, and an impressive variety of birds not found any other place on planet Earth. I thought WE had traveled a great distance to get to the island, but the Arctic Tern found in abundance on Grimsey migrates pole to pole each spring from Antarctic!

Nature is incredible.

Puffin Bay

Puffin Bay

Interesting fact: Because of the incredible bird population, dogs and cats are not allowed on the island. Period. For pets, kids keep a chicken, goose, or duck.

Take a look at the basalt cliff formations on the southwest corner of the island. These horizontal formations formed when lava cooled rapidly and cracked into horizontal formations.

Grimsey Island, Iceland

Just a few yards from the formations, remains of what must have been a turf house?

Turf House, Grimsey Island

On the southeast corner of the island (only steps from the southwest corner), a bright orange lighthouse (built in 1937) guides fishermen and boat traffic into the small harbor.

Lighthouse on Grimsey Island

Life at Grimsey

The people of North Iceland and particularly Grimsey Island are oblivious to the clock and the calendar. According to our tour guide, Hella, folks are aware of the time school starts and ends and when the ferry arrives, otherwise, time is determined completely by the weather.

The island offers one diner with a fabulous beer cheese soup, a small airport with one daily flight that may or may not arrive, an indoor swimming pool, and a school that serves up to middle school students. By age fourteen, kids must leave home to finish, sort of a boarding school life. The doctor visits every two weeks, otherwise, in an emergency, the island depends on the daily airplane and coast guard rescue. There’s a guest house on the island and a 3-hole golf course (with plans to expand). You can actually hit the ball across the Arctic Circle!

Loneliest hole of golf ever?

golf course at Arctic Circle

History

In 1878, Daniel Willard Fiske (1831-1904), a professor at Cornell University, circumnavigated the island and became captivated by the place and people. Although he never stepped foot on the island, he struck up a friendship with two islanders via penpal correspondence. Fiske discovered the people of Grimsey were skilled chess players. In 1901, he presented Grimsey Island with a large library and gifted every household a chess set. At the bay, a monument honors Fiske. His birthday, November 11, is known as Fiske Festival, a day of celebration.

Monument to Fiske, Iceland

The church on the outskirts of town was constructed primarily from driftwood in 1867 and improved in 1932. The altar painting, based on Leonardo da Vinci’s mural The Last Supper, was created by a local artist in 1878. Services are held approximately four times a year by a visiting vicar.

the Church of Grimsey

The Arctic Circle

We officially crossed the Arctic Circle on the north end of the island. Yes, I took a copy of my book, The Accidental Salvation of Gracie Lee. So many of my readers have been kind enough to send me fabulous pictures of Gracie Lee on vacation, so I couldn’t not do it too. Plus, May is “Get Caught Reading Month” so technically we’re supposed to take pictures of books in all sorts of places. It’s true.

Before we boarded the ferry back for the mainland, I donated a copy of my book to the Grimley Island library. Maybe someone on the island will read it and be curious about visiting the Arkansas Delta and its people, farmers who also live and die by the weather? And they’ll think, “Who are these strange people who grow cotton and eat cheese dip?”

Maybe.

Gracie Lee at the Arctic Circle!

And guess what? After one crosses the Arctic Circle, one gets to drink hot chocolate and eat waffles with rhubarb jam and cream. Just fyi.

on the ferry

I came to Iceland under the pretense of writing (?) and even if I don’t write a solitary word, it’s invaluable to explore the unusual and awaken to the truth of how different and varied other cracks and crevices on this planet really are. We get so wrapped up in what we think and believe, those things we get in a tizzy about. But Lordy, we are so insignificant. So small. This truth is only a plane ride away.

Grace Grits and Gardening
Farm. Food. Garden. Life.

[tweetthis]We sailed to Grimsey Island & crossed the Arctic Circle @lonelyplanet #Iceland #travel #nature #getcaughtreading[/tweetthis]

P.S. The ferry ride back to the mainland was much smoother and the weather clearer. This trip has definitely been a highlight so far and something I highly recommend if you visit North Iceland. Arctic Sea Tours can hook you up with this as well as whale watching tours. Forgive the mess of this post. I wrote it super quick!

Musical Pairing:
Gillian’s Island Theme

Filed Under: Nature & Seasons, Travel Tagged With: Arctic Circle, Arctic Sea Tours, Grimsey Island, Iceland, North Iceland, The Accidental Salvation of Gracie Lee, travel

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Comments

  1. creecy33arbara Tate says

    May 28, 2017 at 4:14 pm

    WOW!!!

    Reply
  2. diningwithdebbie says

    May 28, 2017 at 8:50 pm

    This really entices me to go!

    Reply
    • Grace Grits and Gardening says

      May 29, 2017 at 5:32 am

      I can’t say enough about it. Of course, I’ll try:)

      Reply
  3. De Ann says

    May 29, 2017 at 7:59 am

    Thanks for sharing your incredible experience. The photos are spectacular! I love that you gave them a copy of your book. Maybe they will invite you back for an author talk!

    Reply
  4. Beth says

    May 29, 2017 at 8:13 am

    Love it!

    Reply
  5. marthajaneorlando says

    May 29, 2017 at 1:42 pm

    Absolutely fascinating info about Grimley Island! And your photos are wonderful, too. Gotta love the shot of you holding up “Gracie Lee” at the signpost!
    Enjoy the rest of your magnificent trip, Talya!

    Reply
  6. Colene says

    May 29, 2017 at 6:24 pm

    Lots of writing material there! I’m so glad it has been a wonderful experience for you and John. I guess Annabelle and Lucy will never know what they are missing.

    Reply

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Hi! I'm Talya Tate Boerner. Writer, Reader, Arkansas Master Naturalist / Master Gardener, Author of

THE ACCIDENTAL SALVATION OF GRACIE LEE (2016)

GENE, EVERYWHERE: a life-changing visit from my father-in-law (2020)

BERNICE RUNS AWAY (Now Available!)

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