A couple of weeks ago I spent some time in Heber Springs, Arkansas. It was my first visit to this charming town in the central part of the state. Not sure how that’s even possible.
When I visit a new place, especially if I’m traveling alone, I explore. I search for the library and I seek out the old historic cemetery because to me, cemeteries are a way to connect to the town. I walk the downtown area to see the architecture. Heber Springs gets a big checkmark for having a courthouse in the middle of the town square. Yay!
Walking is the best way to discover a place. Driving through, you miss all the things.
Y’all, Jitterbug Coffee House was fantastic!
After getting my green tea fix, I searched for the lake. I knew Greers Ferry was close by because I could see Sugarloaf Mountain from my hotel room (NOT to sound like Sarah Palin), The truth is, I can’t not see the lake, being a lake person and all.
I took a road that seemed promising, and yes, I can feel when a road leads to water. Clues point the way. Road names end in Bay or Cove or View. A bait stand or boat repair business is a good indicator, too.
A sign for a dock construction company led me meandering down a road through the trees. I found water but not a lake. I walked to the edge of The Little Red River and felt truly in awe of the stunning landscape and the surprises Arkansas holds. The air was at least ten degrees cooler. A critter rustled the leaves behind me and I thought about how no one in the world knew where I was at that moment. There’s something satisfying in that.
And then I sent my Momma a text just in case.
Before heading back to town, I followed the road a bit further and admired the homes tucked away all quiet and hidden near the riverbank. A man was busy planting his garden. He waved to me and I wondered what it must be like to live in such solitude. I think I would like it.
On the way back to my hotel, I noticed a sign for Sugarloaf Folklore Society outside a building that looked much like the old church I attended as a girl. I pulled into the gravel lot because how could I not with a sign that said Live County Music & Dancing on Friday at 7:00.
And it was Friday night at 7:00.
While the band (also called Sugarloaf) tuned up, I was welcomed in and introduced around by the people there who greeted me like a celebrity simply because I was a visitor. By the time the first dance started, my dance card had a wait list.
Blurry, of course, because we were dancing… (My boots were in my hotel room!)
Flashback: As a Baylor freshman, we had a Friday night ritual of driving to the Fraternal Hall in West, Texas to country-western dance (which in Texas is called kicker dancing). There’s nothing like line dancing to the Cotton-Eye Joe in Texas. End of Flashback.
Well. Line dancing, for whatever reason, is NOT ALLOWED at the Sugarloaf Dance Hall and I never quite understood why. No matter. There was plenty of dancing to be had. I even learned to do the East Coast Swing. At one point I had to hide out in the bathroom to catch my breath. Not kidding.
On the way back to my hotel room, I stopped at Pizza Pie-Zazz for soup because the front desk clerk told me they had the best soup ever. And they did! I had turnip green soup and it was seriously delicious. I even had a refill. Tell me, where except small town southern U.S.A. does your waitress offer you a soup refill? (And p.s. the owner, Todd Slayton, is also Mayor of nearby Pangburn. He was super personable, bought one of my books, and promised to review it.)
I felt a little sad when I pulled out of town the next morning. The people of Heber Springs completely swallowed me up and made me want to stay a while longer. But I hit the road feeling revived with my music cranked up. And my drive was idyllic.
I feel so at home on these rural country roads that lure me to slow down and stop for a while.
And I drove over the dam at Greers Ferry on the way out of town. Bonus.
Grace Grits and Gardening
Farm. Food. Garden. Life.
[tweetthis]All the things about Heber Springs @artourism @OnlyinArk #GreersFerry #Sugarloaf [/tweetthis]
Musical Pairing:
Maren Morris, My Church
You are quite the explorer and tell about your adventures so well! I’m glad you text your momma though.
So glad you liked our town. For the record, there are two Sugar Loaf Mountains. The one your hotel overlooked is just outside of town and the other is an island in Greers Ferry Lake. It’s pretty awesome to see.
Thank you Gina, that clears up a few things for me!
Mommas need to know. Incidentally, she is in Tupelo, Mississippi, Elvis’ birth place, this morning, on her way to an Alabama Book Festival. ( That would be Talya, not momma, who is in MS).
Loved this blog about Heber Springs. I have been dancing at the Sugarloaf Dance Hall. That place really rocks.
You are gadding about while 4 of your friends are holed up in their rooms writing, writing, writing. DJ left this morning while I was at breakfast with Lucidity friends for the last time till October. All fun, all glorious. Only one “wine-thirty session after dinner on Monday. A miracle: I haven’t been to Dollar General OR any of the thift stores. Gotta keep my nose to the grindstone. Soon it might resemble sand paper. xoxo
I hated to miss it but this trip to Alabama has been a great experience. I know you got some great writing in and made lots of good memories. Next time maybe!
My sister/friend moved from Heber Springd next door to when we were seven. I’ve made many trip with her. Greers Ferry is also where we water skied and camped. Her family’s buried there. She still owns her mother’s house. However, she’s never taken me dancing. I must speak with her about that!
Though I hate to admit to a Tate girl that I’m not a lake person, it is the truth. I don’t like to be on the water. While family and friends hit the water, I explore. Probably saw some of the same things you saw. Be safe!
I totally get it and I always have to take time to explore the sites. So I’m not as big a lake person as the rest of my party!
I don’t know why I was surprised you had never been to Heber Springs – afterall, you hadn’t been to Petit Jean Mountain until the last year or two. Unreal. I know when we were kids and would say we’re “going to the Lake” – we meant Norfork Lake. It seems many of my Osceola friends meant “Greers Ferry Lake” when they would say it. It’s always been interesting to me through the years that most of my best friends favored Lake Norfork – and how could they not??? I guess it’s all in what we’re use to and mostly about where our families took us – but I’m glad it was Norfork in our case. So many great memories riding that ferry, jumping off the cliffs, skiing and sunbathing and eating your daddy’s ribs.
You mentioned Pangburn – there is rich family history there on the Parnell and Tate side. I have several cousins who live there or near there – just up the road from Heber. Several taught school there for years and one lives on top of Gravel Hill Road. Granddaddy Homer’s sister, Verna’s (Tate Hicks) daughter, Opal, married my daddy’s brother, Bob, and they lived in Pangburn for years. He was the one who taught Agri for 30+ years at Searcy High School.
Anyhow, you just never know when you’ll cross paths amongst relatives of other relatives – degrees of separation and all that jazz….
Hope you enjoyed your time in Tupelo – and on to Alabama you go! Be careful out there! XOXO
P.S. Robbie (Ronnie’s wife) also grew up at Pangburn before they moved to MissCo. Bro and Sister Coots lived at Pangburn and still have family there too. Who knew Arkansas was SOOO big!? lol
OK girlfriend, for the past four years I’ve called Heber Springs home, even though I work and spend most of my time in Memphis. I can’t believe you went to Pizza PieZazz and didn’t have a slice of their Sauerkraut Pizza … and yes, I said sauerkraut! It’s actually better than the turnip green soup. While driving to Alabama I hope you stopped at the Bulldog Grill in Bald Knob and enjoyed one of their famous pizza burgers! If not then it may be worth your while to backtrack on the way back to Fayetteville ;D
Ohhh I didn’t know about the sauerkraut pizza! I don’t even remember driving through Bald Knob… But you know I’d stop for a pizza burger! Good to hear from you Muffett.
Love, love, love Heber! I remember sitting with my feet in the wading pond when I was a kid. I was watching a local man whittle a little canoe from a stick. He gave the canoe to me. He made my day and gave me a precious memory. I love Heber too because my sweet sister lives there. It’s where we vacationed with our kids for many years. Heber reminds me of laughter, love, Sadie’s Rock and Muffett’s famous Margaritas!!!! I could use a dose of Heber and Muffett right now!!!!
Such a sweet story! Heber is to you what Mountain Home is to me.